Sam Sifton’s Golden Ears And Million Dollar Taste Buds (Fader)

New York Times food critic Sam Sifton is a longtime newspaperman, and his reviews are more than just toasts to a multicultural city. One of his first was of La Grenouille, a 47-year-old French institution. He was loving in his description of the restaurant, alternately minutely detailed and broad in scope, as though setting the scene for a play in the dining room. All of Sifton’s reviews utilize this same delicacy, restaurants being the perfect medium for him to write the narrative of a very diverse city.


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